Kashmir Great Lakes Trek - A Life changing experience !!

This trek was an outcome of a small change in plans. I had initially planned to do a Ladakh Bike trip this July but had to last min look out for other options as I would be joining a new company immediately after the trip. The dates were an issue with the Ladakh Trip.

And so my search began for good trekking spots in Himalayas - something that I was longing for. I came across this Kashmir Great Lakes Trek on Trek The Himalayas website and found it to be serene and very beautiful. After a few inquiries, I booked my slot for 13th July along with the Air tickets to Srinagar. My last day of work @ USL was 9th July. I was all set for my dream trek in the Himalayas.

Day 0 - Mumbai - Srinagar - Gagangir

I landed @ Srinagar around 1.30 in the afternoon. I was told to contact Javed (our Cab driver) who would pick us up from the Airport. Along with me, I had two more guys (from Bangalore) who would be a part of the trek - Som & Muthu. Once all of us got together, our drive started off from Srinagar to Sonamarg (our base village where we would be taking a night halt)

On the way, at every corner of the street were CRPF jawans (Soldiers) posted. I got a feeling that this place was not so clam as it looked. My feeling turned into reality when ahead there was a road block. Apparently, the locals had blocked the road due to a robbery that had taken place that morning. The robbers were 2 policemen and the locals demanded them to be brought in public and beaten up. There were people running around, policemen with guns in their hand, the head of the police trying to negotiate with the locals but to no vain. Our driver told us to remain seated in our cab while he went at the scene to assess the situation. Suddenly, we heard gun shots being fired and our driver came running and said 'Raasta khul jayega, jaldi gaadi nikalte hai'. I just told him to ensure we do not get stuck right at the place where the gun shots were being fired and this is what happened.

Our cab got stuck at the exact spot from where tear gases were being fired. After a few mins of experiencing the tear gas effect first hand, we got out from there. Apparently, Javed told us that stone pelting is a common phenomena where locals block roads and hit stones on any vehicle that crosses that path. Ahead, I could see a lot of stones lying on the road which indicated it had happened recently. Finally, after the adventure, we managed to reach our base camp - Gagangir. The tent was already in set up. We took a stroll nearby between the pine trees, all three of us excited and waiting for the next day to start our trek. The place was so beautiful, however all of us were saving our batteries because the trek had not yet begun and there was already so much to see.

Day 1: Sonamarg (7800 ft) - Nichnai (11500 ft) via Shekdur

It was Trek day and all three of us excited as ever were ready @ 8 am to leave. Just go to know, we would have to wait for a make shift local guide as out Trek leader Dinesh was going to accompany another group of 20 people coming the next day. Our trek started off @ 11.15 am from Sonamarg. Guide - Rashid Bhai and a helper/cook - Nazir (who also took care of 2 mules on which our camping stuffs were carried)

All three of us set to explore Himalayas. The place was beautiful and heavenly. It felt as if such a place could never exist on Earth. In just 15 mins, we entered vast lush green meadows with horses grazing, we could see shepherds and their flock of sheeps. The view was beautiful and out of the world.

A serene view just 10 mins into our trek. Gave us an idea of what was going to come ahead :)

We then came across a check post where the Jawan (Rohit) took our entries. He told us, there was another group (2 from bangalore and 1 from Mumbai) who had crossed early morning. We later happened to meet them on the 3rd day.

The Soldier (Rohit) who was posted @ Sonamarg check post

There was a long painful climb of 4 hours which seemed to be never ending. Between pine trees, we took short breaks and managed to cover the desired distance. Som got an AMS attack during this climb (Acute Mountain Sickness) Symtoms - Breathlessness, Dizzyness and one tends to go blank - doesn't know what he is doing. Solution - Decend at the earliest. All of us were desperate to reach our tents - it was our only mission then.

Out Camp site - Day 1 (Nichnai)

Our tenting spot was beautiful with a stream flowing beside it. Once we reached our tents, we came to know that the organizers had not given is the "Stove pump" and Nazir (our helper/cook) would have to go all the way back to get it. Yes, he had to else we wouldn't survive the next 6 days. He left to get to stove pump and would return early morning. Our local guide didn't know how to set up a Tent. Muthu, Som and I managed to do it with instructions printed on the cover. Nazir had arranged for food from a Shepherd's house which we ate religiously. Som wasn't in a condition to eat. He was out. After the first day, our legs were so tired - all of us had 1 question in mind.. How will be survive the next 6 long days???? With this, we got into our sleeping bags (we named it Python - as it looked like one) and dozed off hoping all of us would be alright the next morning.

 Day 2: Nichnai (11500 ft) - Vishansar (12000 ft)

Luckily all of us got up fresh.. with tired legs but feeling good that our head aches and body aches had disappeared. Once Nazir was back, we started our 2nd day where our guide told us to walk ahead and he would follow us after packing all the camping stuff. Immediately there was a river crossing. I did not want to risk getting my shoes wet, so I removed them and crossed the river. The water was ice cold and you could feel it prick right into your bones. I took a 'feet warming' break for 5 mins post that crossing. Muthu & Som managed to cross it with their shoes on.

Again, there was a long climb. We were climbing the 2nd highest peak in our trek (Nichnai pass / Vishansar pass) - 13500 ft. It was a breadth taking view - literally. I lost my breadth here. Got an AMS attack - dizziness and all black out. Unable to take even few steps - and looking ahead I knew I would not make it to the top. With the weight of the huge bag on my shoulders, my body was giving up. I was taking short breaks to get my breadth back every 2 mins. Came across a stream where I filled my bottle, mixed electral and drank it. Slowly, very slowly I managed to climb and finally made it to the top. My heart was beating at the fastest rate possible. The view was mesmerizing. I managed to click a few pics in that condition and we started descending. This was the first spot where we encountered snow. Muthu's dream of "Kashmir aaye aur snow nahi dekha - aisa nahi chalega' was fulfilled. We crossed a snow patch and started our steep descend.

The climb towards the second highest peak of our Trek

We managed to reach our tents by 5.30 pm. Nazir gave us some hot maggi which we relished. After resting for a while, we went to Vishansar Lake just a 5 min climb away from out camping spot.

Vishansar Lake

Here we also met the other 3 trekkers (2 from Bangalore & 1 from Mumbai - similar combination like ours). After spending some time at the lake, we had our dinner and were back in our tents. Tomorrow was the toughest day of our trek where we would be climbing the highest peak (Gadsar Pass - 13800 ft). I was low on confidence as I felt, my body is not accepting high altitude conditions and was discussing the same with my fellow trek mates. Som adviced me to walk slowly the next day (we had name this style - Zombie walk)

Day 3: Vishansar (12000ft) - Gadsar (12000 ft) via Gadsar Pass (13800 ft)

Day 3 began early morning and we were all mentally prepared for the toughest day. We began out climb at 7.30 am. After some time, I hear Muthu say "Guys, you will be shocked to see what lies next". And yes.. we were indeed shocked. A huge steep mountain was in front of us. Our guide Rashid very casually said "Sahab, hame bus yeh paar karna hai.. phir raasta down hai".

The huge mountain that we were to climb - which eventually was our highest peak in the Trek

The pic doesn't show how huge and steep this climb was. 

With a lot of efforts, breaks we managed to climb the highest peak of our trek - Gadsar Pass

View from the top @ Gadsar Pass (13800 ft)

After this was a very painful steep descend and then a long walk in the meadows. Our guide lost his way in some place and made us descend a very steep (risky) hill - saying it was a shortcut to the actual route. Our next halt was at an Indian Army camp site where they took our information (place, reason for coming, job etc). I also met a few soldiers from Nashik, spoke to them in Marathi. They felt very good to hear their local language. After resting for a while, we reached our campsite which was again put up near a stream. 

With Indian Army Soldiers (from Nashik)

By now, our body had got acclimatized to the conditions there. Though it was the toughest day, none of us had any issues with climbing / trekking today. We reached the camp site by 3 and it being sunny, Muthu and me decided to freshen up at the stream. The other group of trekkers had also camped at the same location. While speaking to them, we realized they never carried any luggage. We decided to hand over our bags to the helper and walk free with only our cameras with us.

Day 4: Gadsar (12000 ft) - Satsar - Maegandov (12000 ft)

We felt like free birds the next day with no bags on our shoulders. I was able to click many more pictures and spend more time looking and absorbing the beauty rather than huffing puffing all the way through. We started off early and climbed for the next 3 hours - with ease. Now, we weren't taking so many breaks and our team had gathered momentum. Here, Som changed from Zombie mode (the slow walker) to Som mode (Talking / clicking pictures) We also met soldiers at various check points.

I forgot to mention one more person who was accompanying us all these days - "Chacha". He was an old man around 60 years. He was the cook of the other group but trekked with us as we were a little slow and suitable for his pace of trekking. Today, even chacha was left behind as all three of us were acclimatized to the terrain & weather and we were without bags. We walked for 2 hours on lush green meadows with small flowers.

These flowers would bloom in a months time

We then reached another camp site where Indian Army jawans checked every baggage and would not allow us until it was done. The weather was extremely windy - so windy that we had to take cover on the slope of the hill. I truly admire the dedication and passion shown by those jawans. It took us one hour to remove all the baggages (from the horses) and put them back, the jawans knew it but still would check every corner of the ruck sack to be sure of no danger. Respect !!

The Army jawans checking our luggage

After the short halt @ the camp site, we moved on. Next was an hour of Rocky patch which took a toll on our knees. Eventually we reached our destination at 1.45 pm (which was like a record). Muthu was bugged with the maggi that our helper made last time. So he decided to take the initiative and make his style of maggi. It was awesome !! We hogged 'Muthu special' maggi and then rested for a while. In the evening, we had some onion pakoda's and tomato soup. Into the python we went after that.

Day 5: Margendov (12000 ft) to Gangabal (11500 ft)

To my surprise, Som & Muthu had Son Papdi for breakfast while I had 2 boiled eggs. We woke up early @ 5.45 am and started our day @ 7.15 am. We encountered a very rocky and steep climb after 10 mins of our trek. It seemed to be a never ending climb. Slowly with time, I realized it was kinda dangerous with the valley right below and absolutely no space apart from the very narrow path. Saying this, I happened to slip at a point where I would have just disappeared in the valley. Luckily, in the spot, I was taking Rashid's support and managed to maintain my balance and cross it. Som & Muthu saw me slip and took another easier route.

Som & Muthu - climbing the never ending climb.

With the slip, I got a panic attack and was not able to walk on easier paths. A normal path looked scary. I was constantly asking Rashid to be beside me and help me cross some difficult patches. Slowly, with time, I gained my confidence back and was normal. Finally after 4 hours of painful climbing and escaping a fall, we managed to reach the top.

A view from the top - on the Right (Lake Gangabal) and the left one (Lake Namkhol). Both these water bodies are HUGE.. the pic does not do justice to the massive size.

After capturing some amazing pictures, while our descend, Rashid realized that the route was much risker that our climb and we would not be able to do it. He took a detour and found another easier way down. Though it was a little longer, but much easier and safer which is what all of us wanted. We took halts mid way.

Rashid - resting while we all were clicking some pictures of the beautiful landscapes

We finally reached our camp site which was near the smaller lake (Namkhol). The below pic will help us understand how BIG was the small lake.

This is our tent at the tip of the (small) lake - Namkhol

As we reached out tents, not only us but our guide Rashid was also expecting Muthu to make his special maggi, which he did. After relishing the delicious maggi, we rested for a while and then went for a small trek to Gangabal (the bigger lake). It took us an hour to reach there. That place was the most beautiful place in the entire trek. We just sat there gazing at the beauty and massiveness of glaciers / ice cold water. With sun rays passing between mountains and falling on the lake, it was just a beautiful sight and all of us went into a different zone - meditation (not literally).

 We reached our tents and had hot tomato soup and some onion pakoda's. This was our last night in the tent and we were surely going to miss Python (Sleeping bag) and all the experiences we had in the last 6 days. Next day we were to trek and descend towards Naranag from where we would be going to Srinagar.

Day 6: Gangabal (11500 ft) to Naranag (7500 ft)

Early morning we got an clear view of the Harmukh peak (the glacier that surrounds the two lakes - Gangabal & Namkhol). We started off early by 7.15 am as all of us wanted to reach Srinagar as soon as possible. By now, our body was used to the conditions, our legs were strong and we were more confident than ever before. Our pace of trekking had increased and we covered a lot of distance before we met out guide Rashid. All this while, we trekked between amazing landscapes and beautiful meadows.

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The after walking among the pine trees for some 2 hours, our actual descend started. The descend was very steep and our legs were hurting to the core. I had blisters on my toes and my ankles and knees were paining badly. However, there came a point where we stopped feeling the pain and just descended with one intention - to reach Srinagar at the earliest. We reached Naranag (base village) at 12.30 pm and were set to reach Srinagar by 3 pm.

Just to our shock, the locals told us the situation in Srinagar was real bad. There was a curfew for the last 3 days and it would be extremely risky to go there now. Our cab driver took us to Gagangir (same place where we stayed on our first night). The plan was to stay here till night and leave around 3 am in the morning when things would be a little calm.

We checked into a hotel in the same place. Our lunch was Chicken, chicken and chicken !! Super delicious !! We had it all and went back to our room. All these days, everyone of us were waiting to reach Srinagar and have a hot water bath. Now, all of us were in the room, with a bathroom & hot water, but nobody was willing to get up. All of us lying down on the bed... just reliving the last 6 days of pure thrill. Finally all of us were ready, we packed our luggages and were set to go.

The trek organizer - Riyaz bhai (the one who handles all local guides / cab drivers / pick up drop facility) was the one who had shown us this hotel. He was suppose to pick us up early morning. We had 6 cards coming at 3.30 am. All three of us in three different cars. I was with Riyaz bhai. He spoke about how bad the situation was in the last few days. He told me, we had to somehow cross a place called Kangan which was supposedly the most dangerous place. Once we reached the VIP road, it wouldn't be so bad. I was just hoping that somehow, we reach the airport. The entire journey from the hotel to Srinagar Airport was very scary.

Finally we reached the airport @ 6 am and saw hundreds of people sleeping / sitting outside. They were tourists who were stuck at the airport due to the tense situation in Srinagar.

We had our last chai / coffee together before Som & Muthu left for Bangalore. They had an early flight @ 9.30 am while mine was @ 11.15 am. With such good memories, some of them scary ones.. and with two new wonderful friends, I ended this wonderful trek of Kashmir Great lakes. Would be doing more treks in the Himalayas in the years to come..!!

Cheers !!
K.G